【Taste of Time】Deciphering Artificial Flavor
release time:
2022-05-23 09:18
ONE
Many people think that the word "artificial" for spices means low-end and cheap; only natural spices can be good. In fact, if you understand the history of perfume, you will find that this is not the case. Xiaobian will take you to "break" this prejudice.
Searching the history of perfumery, the first artificial fragrance perfume was launched in 1882, Hobigerent, Royal Fougere Perfume, and now the Fragrance in the fragrance classification is named after this. Seven years later, in 1889, Guerlain Jiki set off a wave of modern perfumes. The two perfumes used artificial fragrances together: coumarin, which is the main component of tonka beans. When concentrated, there is a warm almond sweet aroma. Its appearance can be said to have realized the dream of perfumers at that time and created a miracle. Without it, there would be no subsequent rise of the modern perfume industry.
TWO
Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena said in his "Perfumer's Diary": "Nature is complex - the aroma of a rose has five hundred odor molecules, more than chocolate and less than garlic. Of these five hundred molecules, rose ether provides a peculiar metallic and green tones, perillene creates a fresh citrus-like top note of rose, and damascenone is the determinant of the overall scent of rose, which can even make the three When used together, the aroma of a rose cannot be completely restored. This is a common trait of natural extracts: strong scents but lacking the scent details of natural substances or natural essential oils. And perfume art is not looking for imitation of nature, so this quality is not a disadvantage. If a perfumer has discernment and ingenuity, he can use a certain natural extract to completely change the direction of the perfume industry.
Edmond Roudnitska is one such perfumer, who selected Hedione from the nine hundred components of jasmine to create Dior Fresh Water. Heidi Warbler is fresh and citrusy, and lasts longer than citrus. It doesn't matter whether the Heidi Warbler smells good or not, and whether it can restore the floral fragrance of jasmine is also not considered. The whole looks bright and bright. You must know that this is the dream effect of every perfumer, and since then Heidi has become an instant hit and has become an indispensable ingredient in most perfumes.
THREE
The third category of artificial flavors is synthetics, which is in line with the general public's narrow understanding of artificial flavors. These molecules were created in the lab, and some of them really fit the popular perception of artificial flavors as "cheap, crude, and toxic", such as the aquatic concoctions that many people stink about. When it comes to aquatic tunes, I have to say that the hero of Davidoff cold water, dihydromyrcenol. This substance is not only used in perfumes, but also in laundry detergents. Just dihydromyrcenol, it's a bit fresh like citrus, and it's okay to use more, after all, I've never heard of washing powder.
The peculiar smell effect of natural extracts, its artistic plasticity. In the field of perfume manufacturing, the benefits of natural extracts are even more prominent. Even in an environment where many natural fragrances are too rare and expensive, the fragrance industry still has a way of producing good fragrances that are affordable to the masses. In addition to tonka beans, coumarin is also found in vanilla, cinnamon, and various fruits. Rose ether is found in roses as the name suggests, but also in geranium, gewurztraminer wine and passion fruit.
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